From
Ramona (San Diego), California to Phoenix, Arizona

Ending Mileage: 



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RIDE REPORT
I delayed my planned start by one day due to a combination of incomplete preparations and poor weather conditions. I spent Tuesday April 10th running around procuring various bits and pieces. I then settled in to make sure my computer seemed ready for the road (do I all the right applications? Have I collected all the necessary data files and templates? Do I have ISP access while I'm on the road?).
Wednesday started with a great breakfast and flurry of final packing activities and then finally loading the bike. Ron and I had a chance for one last good-bye (shoot, I forgot to say good-bye to the cats!) and off I went. Office Barney Fife of the Mount Woodson Suzuki Patrol saluted me with his radar gun as I eased past his stakeout. As soon as I got up to speed on California 67, I could feel the cold. Despite being wrapped in several dead cows worth of leather, I could feel a distinct chill seeping through the seams.
I had left the house with less than half a tank of gas, so at Alpine it was time for the first gas stop of the day. The weather to the east did not look kind. I hope it was just lingering low cloudiness and fog. Reentering I-8 heading east, the road begins to climb to the first of three summits. This area of San Diego County was hit by a fast moving brush fire last year. I was amazed how the fire had burned on both sides of the freeway and how close the fire had come to the Viejas Shopping and Casino Complex.
The clouds grew darker and settled lower while the temperature plummeted. I continued to push eastward but started to have serious concerns about hypothermia. I knew that once I began the descent into the Coachella Valley the clouds would disappear, the sun would shine and the temperature would rise. My only consolation was that I was only cold and not wet too. Just east of the small town of Boulevard there were several patches of snow &endash; more confirmation of how cold I am.
Before
heading down the grade, I pulled off to take a look at the Desert
Lookout Tower. I knew about this structure but had never taken the
time to have a look.
The ride down to El Centro is a beautiful stretch of highway with
big deep turns. Normally it is a blast to roll down into El Centro
but not today. The weather system was generating a lot of wind. The
highway sits in a canyon and the winds normally change direction due
to the shape of the canyon and influence of topography. On top of
that add the impact of all the twists in the road -- I decided to
back off on the throttle.
This
part of California is very handsome. The eroded mountains are alive
with multicolored rock. The ocotillo were in bloom and their red
flames punctuate the landscape.
I finally see my first motorcycle going in the opposite direction. Outside El Centro, a field of alfalfa is being mowed and the smell is sweet in the warm sun. Second gas stop and some water in El Centro and then right back on the road.
East of El Centro, there seems to be nothing. Eventually, we run into sand dunes. These lands are much prized by off road enthusiasts and there were plenty of motor homes parked along the access roads -- but not much evidence of dune buggies in operation. It could still be too early? Or Perhaps evidence of too much partying last night? One of the earliest attempts at a road between Arizona and San Diego across these dunes required a novel road building technique. Boards were tied together to allow early automobiles to cross the shifting sands of the desert.
Finally I reach Yuma and make a quick stop at the Tourist Information office. As I thought, there isn't much in Yuma. East of Yuma, the Border Patrol has a checkpoint and I'm reminded of my drive from Nuremberg to Berlin in 1990.
Humanity is starting to get a bit scarce and the gas tank is getting lower. I turn off at a place called Antelope Valley in hopes of finding a gas station. Antelope Valley seems to consist of a High School, two churches, a beauty salon/restaurant and some modest homes. Just past Antelope Valley is a very handsome series of railroad bridges that cross a desert wash. But I'm focused on not dropping the bike on the gravel road and not running out of gas.
At the next exit -- civilization! Well at least a gas station and restroom at a place called Tacna. Back to the road, the wind has come up again. About the time I get comfortable with the prevailing direction / strength I get a gust out of nowhere that rattles my nerves.
A rest stop presents itself and I decide it is time for a short stop. The rest stop apparently had no power; although it doesn't seem to be a concern to the maintenance worker that is on site. I think I found the urinal in the dark, but I'm not sure. The informational kiosk includes some interesting information about railroads in Arizona. As if on cue, a long freight -- mostly containers &endash; rolls past the southern edge of the rest stop. I notice a sign that warns of scorpions and rattlesnakes. This posted on a sign on the way to the "Pet Exercise Area."
Finally Gila Bend appears on the horizon. For some reason, I thought of this Gila Bend as being a decent sized place. Travelers are greeted by the message "Gila Bend: 1700 nice people and 5 old grumps." It's an old joke, here and elsewhere, but I always chuckle. Gila Bend is even more tawdry and depressed than I remember from a visit in 1976. That night, I made the mistake of stopping for some food and caffeine at the A&W. My buddy Jim and I swore the cook used her hair to grease the skillets! The A&W was nowhere in evidence.
At Gila Bend, I turned onto Arizona Route 85 heading north to meet up with Interstate 10 for the ride into Phoenix. Someone has used two F-111s (not sure) as gates for a compound. I passed quickly enough that it was not really clear if it was industrial or residential but it sure struck me as odd. I wish I had time to chase down that story.
There is a huge prison alongside Arizona 85. Several off duty correctional officers speed past me on the passing lanes. Once on I-10 there is another prison interestingly at the same exit as the Zoo and horse racetrack. I like the signs that warn: "Prison in area, Do not pickup hitchhikers."
It is time for the last gas stop of the day. When all is settled this will be the third longest ride of the entire trip. It feels it too. A short ride into Phoenix, one missed turn and I'm safely in my room at the Holiday Inn Midtown.
Tomorrow, I'm staying in Phoenix to do some sightseeing.
Depart Ramona heading south on California Route 67.
At Lakeside turn onto Mapleview Street to Interstate 8.
Turn onto Interstate 8 heading east.
Enter Arizona at Yuma, continue on I-8
At Gila Bend turn north onto Arizona Route 85.
At intersection with Interstate 10, transition onto I-10 heading east.
Arrive Phoenix, AZ.
(c) 2001 Thomas N. Engler Revision Date: 04/11/2001 revised
08/08/01