From Winston-Salem, NC to Lynchburg, VA 
From Winston-Salem, NC to Lynchburg, VA
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Since I left Atlanta, I have been winding my way across northern Georgia, the Carolinas and today I'll enter southern Virginia. Other than the Blue Ridge Parkway, the roads haven't been noteworthy but they haven't been poor either. I have had several great days of riding through beautiful countryside on medium and small roads. It really has been quite wonderful.
As I left Winston-Salem this morning, I used US route 52 which will soon be developed into Interstate 73. The route selection was announced on the news last night. There are signs along the roadside announcing this to be the future I-73 corridor. The first twenty miles are so are very quick and get me on my way to Mount Airy in good time.
I'm going to Mt. Airy in search of yet another "Eat Your Way Across the USA" restaurants. This time it is the Snappy Lunch Counter. I'm reminded by the book that Mt. Airy is the home of Andy Griffith. Somewhere on this trip, I watched a documentary about him and although he acted the part of a simpleton, apparently was very much the brains behind the show and its concept.
I
take a diversion just short of Mt. Airy to have a look at Pilot Nob.
I couldn't determine how this hill was formed but it appeared to be
granite and so is probably related to thinks like Stone Mountain in
Georgia or Half Dome in Yosemite. There is a very nice state park
that includes the entire mountain and quite a bit of surrounding
forest. There is an easy through very steep drive that takes you to
the top. Signs indicate that both native-Americans and early settlers
used its prominent siting as a reference in when navigating the
region.
I'm intrigued because as a child growing up on Mayberry, RFD, I often wondered where Aunt Bea was going when she headed over to Mount Pilot. Well she didn't come here but to a neighboring town inspired by Pilot Nob.
Mt.
Airy doesn't look exactly like Mayberry but it is 2001 and not 1961
in real life. But there were some similarities. When I get to the
Snappy Lunch Counter, there is a line of customers waiting to dine --
although dine maybe too glamorous a verb to use.
Standing in line, we can watch Charles Dowell frying the pork chops that are the centerpiece of Snappy's trademark sandwich. It seems like nothing else is being cooked. The man ahead of me tells his wife with confidence that they have added a second dining area to accommodate all the tour buses. I'm amazed that people seem to be willing to sit on a tour bus to experience anything.
Inside
the lunch counter, it is crowded -- there isn't room to move. I get
directed to the second dining room. To get to the second dining room
you have to pass through a business that separates the original
Snappy Lunch Counter from the dining annex. It turns out that you
cross through Floyd's Barber Shop. Not any barber shop but the
original Floyd's -- the one on the TV show being a carbon copy. It is
another odd deja vu.
Lets talk pork chop sandwich. The menu is a white paper affair. The prices are so low that I look to see if this is a replica menu with vintage prices. But it isn't and the sandwich really is $2.45. I don't really need the menu because of course I'm having a pork chop sandwich. I'm asked if I want it 'all the way' meaning with everything: tomato, onion, mustard, slaw and chile paste.
The sandwich is served nearly immediately. It is presented simply, wrapped in white wax paper with no plate. It is freshly cooked and the first bite confirms why this little thing is an icon. The pork is tender and juice. The bun is toasted but is inadequate to holding all the condiments that come with the sandwich. The slaw is crunchy. The onion is sweet. The mustard and chile paste provide a wonderful subtle spicy / sweet overlay. This is a work of art -- I nearly have a second one. If you are ever in this area, it is worth a 100 mile detour to have the Pork Chop Sandwich and Snappy Lunch.
Outside, my bike is hemmed in by a tour bus picking up some of my fellow diners. I take a few minutes to poke my head into the neighboring shops. This block of Mt. Airy has turned Mayberry into an industry. You can buy Aunt Bea, and every other character, in a mind boggling array of cups, plates, drawings, key chains and snow globes.
The bus full, I head out of Mt. Airy. North Carolina 89 turns out to be a nice two lane road through the countryside. More farms now with large silos and classic barns appear along the highway. Out in the countryside another turn onto North Carolina 704. This road is less developed than 89 and offers more curves and hills. Up and down, across streams and hollows.
The road presents some challenges as the right half of the lane has been paved recently while the left hand side is older pavement. There is a significant height difference between the two sides of the lane. For you non-riders, this is called an edge hazard. When you ride, you often use both sides of the lane: moving from side to side to enter curves. The edge hazard limits your ability to make the move from side to side in a nice fluid manner. In fact, in some curves my tires aren't happy cross up onto the right hand side of the lane and I'm pushed back or held in the center of the lane. Today its not bad because there is so little traffic and I'm not in much of a hurry.
The weather is now a little threatening. The sky has clouded up and one cloud is especially dark. I stop for gas at a one horse town. Both the store attendant and I agree that it looks like it could pour at any moment. Outside it is still dry. A few miles down the highway, there is a brief smattering of rain drops and then nothing. As I approach US 58, I again get a two minute sprinkle. But the day is warm, the raindrops big and soft and the rain a pleasant diversion. For a moment, I had thought I had a black cloud over my head but of course that's not the case.
After crossing into Virginia, I get onto US route 58. This road is a four lane divided highway. It makes for fast running into Danville. A quick stop for something to drink and I'm back rolling. The ride to Lynchburg is on US route 29 another four lane highway.
In Lynchburg, I take the business loop and drive through the city. Lynchburg sits on a hill beside the Dan River. The river passes through town in a deep valley. The roads leading down to the river are very steep -- this must be an unpleasant place when there is ice or snow.
Continue Reading: The Road to Washington
Depart Winston-Salem northbound on US route 52.
Transition to Business Route 52 for stop in Mount Airy.
Stop in Mount Airy, NC
Depart Mount Airy on NC 89 heading south.
Just east of Francisco, turn onto NC704 heading east.
At intersection with NC8, turn left heading north.
Cross state line into Virginia, NC8 becomes Virginia 653
At intersection with US 58 head east.
At Danville, VA transition to US 29 heading north.
At Lynchburg, transition to US 29 Business Loop, drive aimlessly through town.
Arrive Lynchburg.
(c) 2001 Thomas N. Engler Revision Date: 05/10/2001
