From Boston, MA to Portland, ME
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From Boston, MA to Portland, ME
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Distance (in kilometers)
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Yesterday was a beautiful morning and day. Today is gloomy, gray and much colder. I deliberately leave a bit late in hopes of missing most of the morning rush hour. I head toward Boston using a familiar surface road -- familiar in that I have been lost here many times. I take the Massachusetts Turnpike for the first time -- for some reason, my California mentality has an aversion to paying for the use of roads. But I overcome my resistance.
When the Turnpike ends, I turn north onto Interstate 93. I-93 as it passes Boston is part of a project called The Big Dig. During the 1950s, when the US built the first generation of Interstates, Boston decimated some of its inner city neighborhoods by constructing an elevated highway. Its green paint earned it the nickname Green Monster. The Big Dig is a $20 billion (or so) to eliminate the Green Monster, add several bridges and tunnels and to better move traffic across and through the Boston metro area. I-93 is now using some of the first parts of the project to be opened.
Once on the other side of downtown, I-93 quickly stumbles into the in process portion of the project. A new cable-stayed suspension bridge across the Charles River is significantly complete but not yet open. The approaches are still being built. So I-93 uses the older bridge but with the approach ramps of the Green Monster already torn down, I-93 winds up on a series of double deck loops to the old bridge's deck. As you make the approach you get another view of the scope of this project and it is truly amazing.
On the other side of the Charles things are more normal. I have to make one more bridge crossing on US1. This bridge is seriously tall. Luckily I have overcome my acrophobia and the ride is quite thrilling.
The roads north of Boston pass through some older towns and neighborhoods. They look old and are a little depressing. Once out to Salem, things improve and I stop at a Starbucks to have some coffee and thaw my fingers (Thanks Dennis, Naomi!).
One thing I hadn't really noticed while in Boston is the infamous accent. While drinking my coffee and eating my scone, I recalled that I had never heard anyone pawk da caw. While I'm getting back into my riding gear, I overhear two woman on a smoke break in front of a real estate office. There it is -- a nice touch of the famous Boston accent. I hope regionalisms like this never die.
The ride across the rest of Massachusetts and into New Hampshire introduces the classic New England look. In the older parts of each town, there is a classic white church. Depending on the size of the town, the church can be quite large. And in some cases, the sizable charts are made of stone but the steeple is almost always white in color.
Unfortunately the day is not warming up at all. I am very cold so despite some very nice scenery, it is hard to get organized to take pictures. I just want to keep moving along.
I stop at Ogunquit a town in southern Maine, I'll soon learn this is Down South in Maine-speak, that has become a gay destination. Pride flags fly from many bed and breakfasts but Ogunquit is not a gay town -- at least not from my view on the motorcycle. I stop at the Blue Star Grille for lunch. I have some New England Clam Chowder (what else) and a crab sandwich. The soup is excellent. The sandwich is so-so but not because of the crab -- it is first rate.
I think about making a trip to Kennebunkport but decide that a run in with members of the Secret Service might disrupt my travel plans.
Even though I'm staying in South Portland, I ride past Portland up to Falmouth (only a few miles). Portland is very interesting. The old part of town is on a ridge overlooking the harbor. It is built on the pre-automotive city plan with multistoried brick buildings and tight streets. The newer residential parts of town look like any other city in America with detached homes and lawns. Portland dates back into the 1600s and the old part of town is well aware of this heritage. This is another place that could use more time and a longer visit.
Tomorrow: A small town in Vermont
Depart the hotel along Soldiers Field Drive headed towards central Boston.
Enter Massachusetts Turnpike heading east.
Transition onto Interstate 93 heading north.
Cross Charles River, transition onto US 1 heading north.
Exit onto Massachusetts 1A (Revere Beach Parkway) heading east.
Turn onto Massachusetts 107 heading north through Salem.
Turn back onto Massachusetts 1A continuing northbound.
Rejoin US 1 heading north.
Enter New Hampshire
Continue on US 1 heading north
Enter Maine
Continue on US 1 heading north.
Arrive Portland.
(c) 2001 Thomas N. Engler Revision Date: 05/25/2001
