From Billings, MT to Helena, MT
From Billings, MT to Helena, MT
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I determined today's route following a discussion last night with a guy at The Loft. I didn't have any specific route planned for my ride to Helena. His suggestion was to follow this route as Montana 200 will take me through a representative and diverse set of Montana environments. His actual suggestion is to skip Helena completely as it is boring and use highway 200 to go directly to Kalispell. Well I used some of his advice.
I feel blessed by two really nice days in a row. The route takes me back through downtown Billings to join highway 87 near the fairgrounds. The initial couple of miles of US87 is a fairly typical ride through the suburban fringe of a decent sized city. After about ten miles, I am out into prairie. The grass is a mix of green and gold.
South of Roundup, US 87 climbs a bit and quite suddenly there are pine trees on both sides of the road. The character of the countryside is very different than just a few miles before. I stop at a historical marker. This is one describes how cow country works. Again, you can click on the thumbnail to get the full-size view but here is what the marker says:
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"Hysterical Marker" just south of Roundup Montana. I love the chatty content of the markers in the Dakotas and Montana. The closing line on this one is classic. |
In the 1880s, days of the open range, many a roundup outfit worked this country. The spring roundup gathered the cattle in order to brand and tally the calf crop. The fall roundup gathered beef critters for shipping. An outfit consisted of the captain, the riders, the "reps" from neighboring ranches, the cavvy or horse herder in charge of the day herder and night hawk, the four horse chuck wagon piloted by the cook and the bed wagon driven by his flunky. Camp moved each day. The cowboys rode circle in the morning, combing the creeks and coulees for cattle and heading them toward the central point to form a herd. In the afternoons of spring roundup the guards kept the herd together, the cutters split out the cows with calves, the ropers dabbed their loops on the calves, took a couple of daily welts around the saddle horn and dragged 'em to the fire. There the calf wrestlers flanked and flopped them and the brander decorated them with ear notches, or dew laps, and a hot iron. It wasn't all sunshine and roses. |
Coming
up over a ridge, I am presented with a spectacular view. The view
extends for tens of miles out to the horizon. The fields are flat
leading out to a range of mountains in the distance and Greathouse
Peak. The road is of course arrow straight. I see many deer alongside
the road. A small group of antelope run in the field alongside me.
That is really exciting.
At Grass Range (yes that is a town name), the highway turns to the west. The road is now in some foothills. There are more trees on the road sides and in the creeks. The road has become twisty.
Then the road heads dramatically higher to cross the Judith Mountains. The pass has a dense pine forest. The air temperature drops quit a bit providing a nice counterpoint to the dry hot warm air of the lower altitude. I'm passed by a large group of Harley riders headed in the opposite direction.
Lewiston is a handsome old town. The central business district has the usual complement of old brick buildings along the main street. The buildings are mostly two story with some taller buildings. A set of grain elevators are taller than any of the people buildings and provide testimony of the wealth that drives this city. Lewiston seems to be working city with not much to do for a casual visitor.
Heading out of Lewiston towards Great Falls, the terrain reverts to the grain farmlands on broad flat prairies.
At Great Falls, I get onto Interstate 15 heading south. The Big Belt mountains lie to the south of Great Falls. The Missouri River cuts through these mountains in a deep gorge cut through the red lava rock of the mountains. Interstate 15 and a railroad line share the sometimes very steep gorge walls. The river is running heavy but that doesn't stop canoers and fisherman from taking to the water. I had expected I-15 to provide a quick run down to Helena after a beautiful day in the country. Instead I'm rewarded with one of the most beautiful pieces of Interstate mileage that I have ever driven. I'm beginning to think of Montana as one of the most beautiful parts of my country.
It is still a bit too redneck / racist for settlement by civilized people but it is damned beautiful. I'm reminded of this characteristic of some of Montana's resident at a rest stop. I've stopped to stretch and rest for a short time. A handsome man pulls up in his wrecker. He has a burned out Chevrolet Blazer in tow. I'm surprised that he has a daughter that is a practicing attorney and a son that is about to enter graduate school because he looks really young. Somehow he gets on the track of some Iraqi guy that stole something from him and the legal entanglement that ensued. In quick order we cover Russians, Mexicans and African Americans. He also shares a theory that the government dopes the crowds at the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally in order to keep the rowdy crowds controllable. The government purportedly does this using misters that seem to be there to provide some cooling relief from hot South Dakota summer heat. Uh-huh. Sometimes a package isn't as nice as the wrapping.
I get into Helena and fall asleep. It has been a long day out in the sun and I'm pretty tired. Tomorrow, I'll make the run up to Kalispell and Glacier National Park.
Depart Billings headed north through downtown on US 87.
Just beyond Grass Range, US 87 makes a turn to the west joining Montana 200. Stay on US 87.
Continue heading west to Great Falls.
Enter Interstate 15 heading south.
Arrive Helena.
(c) 2001 Thomas N. Engler Revision Date: 06/21/2001
