From Helena, MT to Kalispell, MT
From Helena, MT to Kalispell, MT
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Before I head out of Helena, I take a quick cruise through downtown. Like many towns in Montana, Helena was established when gold was discovered in what is now the downtown district. Four prospectors had been traveling across Montana in the late 1800s. They had reached the point where they had exhausted their supplies to the point where they could only prospect one more time before returning east. In this their 'last chance' mine they discovered a placer lode that is still a source of ore today. In downtown one of the main streets is called "Last Chance Gulch" in honor of their success.
The state capitol is located a few blocks away from the commercial center of Helena in a quiet residential neighborhood.
The
towns that managed to survive after the first mineral strikes pan out
or managed to establish themselves beyond just mineral exploitation
often display a wealth of buildings from the 1880s and 1890s. In
Montana, I have seen several towns / cities with handsome multistory
brick and sandstone buildings in the old city center. Helena has a
nice collection of similar buildings in the Last Chance Gulch and
surrounding blocks. Overlooking the gulch is a handsome stone
cathedral modeled after the great German cathedral in the city of
Ulm.
I depart Helena, a rather sleepy town, on US 12 heading west. My destination today will be Kalispell and then on to Glacier National Park the following day. The weather today is beautiful: sunny, warm and cloudless.
US12 proves to be a really nice road to ride. It is a well maintained four lane highway. The first few miles take me out of Helena into farms and pasturelands. Quite soon though, the road begins to climb to Macdonald Pass. This pass was one of a handful of passes over the continental divide. A historical marker reports the earliest road was a toll road operated by a private individual. During busy times, up to seven stagecoaches per day would cross this pass. The elevation manages to use up most of the day's warmth.
Once over the pass, the highway descends and runs alongside the Little Blackfoot River. The highway and railroad tracks share the valley with the river. Again the setting is stunning. Steep valley walls covered with trees when the slope permits and mix of meadows and pine forest on the valley floor. The Little Blackfoot River lives up to its name compared to recent encounters with the Missouri and Yellowstone.
Between Avon and the interstate, the American Orient Express railroad train passes me going in the opposite direction. The locomotive is a bring shiny new Amtrak unit. The cars are all beautifully restored coaches resplendent in blue and cream livery. The outlines of people can be clearly seen in the windows. Some are in the dining coach others can be seen in their staterooms. What a glorious way to see this countryside in supreme comfort. But still, I wouldn't trade places with them today.
I'm surprised when I see a sign that announces the imminent arrival of the junction with Interstate 90. My route plan had me avoiding the interstate by wandering through some interesting back roads. Apparently I missed the turn onto Montana 141 near Avon. I ride about sixty miles west on Interstate 90 before getting off the highway at Bonner. I gas up early because I'm a little uncertain about gas supplies on the next leg of the journey. I consulted maps.yahoo.com on the Internet and it looks like I have a 130 mile segment with no gas stations. A bit of stretch but not out of the question.
I'm back on Montana 200 backtracking by heading east. This is a great ride, a beautiful two lane road with broad sweeping turns that allow the lumber trucks to roll at high speeds even when fully loaded. The Blackfoot River is alongside the highway. This river, unlike the Little Blackfoot, is broad and fast moving. Even from the highway, I can see the water roiling with currents.
Montana 83 intersects with Montana 200. Surprise, there is a gas station on this corner that was not listed on the yahoo site. I fill up even though that only means a paltry 1.3 gallons. Now I have a greater margin for error and I can bring my stress level WAY down.
I've been advised by several people to avoid other roads into Kalispell as they are relatively developed. The route on MT 83 runs through a valley that has a very low level of development. Just north of the junction, the road runs along the eastern side of Seeley Lake. There are a lot of vacation homes here. Some have fires burning and the smell of their fires hangs in the trees and the still cool air.
A little further north, the damage caused by last week's hail, snow and wind storms can be seen. A lot of trees are broken and blown over. Some trees are still lying alongside the road or right up to the road's edge. Every once in a while, I notice deer in the trees just off the side of the road. I have to slow to allow one doe to finish her trip across the road. The road itself is not much of a challenge but the scenery is a great reward. I need not have worried about gas supplies as there are many small gas stations in the many small towns that exist along the road.
I get to Kalispell and I can clearly see that it exists in large part to service tourists. Hunting, fisherman, snowmobilers and National Park visitors are all catered to by various businesses here. I check into a locally owned hotel that abuts the municipal airport. The airport is used to launch sail planes and even in the late afternoon planes are taking off and landing.
Tomorrow: Going to the Sun Road in Glacier National Park.
Depart Helena on US 12 heading west.
At intersection with Interstate 90, transition onto I-90 heading west.
At Bonner, exit I-90 onto Montana 200 heading east.
At intersection with Montana 80, turn left onto MT 83 heading north.
At intersection with Montana 35, turn right onto MT 35 heading north.
At intersection with Montana 82, turn left onto MT 82 heading west.
At intersection with US 93, turn right onto US 93 heading north.
Arrive Kalispell, MT
(c) 2001 Thomas N. Engler Revision Date: 06/24/2001
